Arica, Putre and Lauca national park I

Juan Marcos and Isabella

LOCATION: CHILE

Hello amigos!
Im currently in Putre, a small vilage 150 km east of Arica, located at the eastern border of Lauca national park, north of Chile (20 km east of the border with Bolivia).My last day in Arica was quite nice and it turned out that another day at this beach resort town was quite positive (and u´´ll soon understand why).Early in the morning (7 am) I woke up and went to the beach to an half-isle called Isle del alacran, which has a nice light tower at its western tip and a group of conders just sitting there and watching surfers getting high waves and good time. At this hour (about 9 am) there was heavy fog from the sea, but still it was amazing just sitting there and the pacific waves bashing into the rocky shore..I then (12 pm) went south to a beach (playa) called Corazona playa..now this beach is situated 7 km south of the Isle...i said to myself, heck i´ve done this before no pro..a nice hike and back...after half an hour of walking i stop by a nice kiosk near another beach (La lisera) and bought my self a coke..the nice women (isabella) who sold me the coke asked me in Espanol where I headed, and with my shameless espanol i told her Corazona beach...and she was going like 'LOCO, TU LOCO!!'...and all mumbeling and all worried...all saing im going with negro clothing (my thermals where on me..) with this hot wheather and all, that im gonna fall of my feet and with this big Muchilla (actually it was my small one, but it was stuffed real good!)...so she adviced me to take a taxi...the lonely planet said something about taking a taxi or bike (not mentioning any waliking all the way..) so i guessed walking all the way isnt that smart at all....so we sat there, having a semi espanol semi gestures conversation waiting for a taxi to come (the public telepone was not operateable...) when all of a sudden she rose up and said something about a friend coming...i rose to and saw a policeman (Juan Marcos) on a shiny heavy BMW motorcycle coming up the road...seems like they are good friends and not a half a minute past and the policemen called a taxi station and ordered a taxi for me!!! I was like...WOW! that´s really nice! and this lady doesnt even know me and she´s all maternal and all...was absolutely surprised, and of course have a nice corner for all the chilean in my heart, that´s for sure!in any case, 10 min after the policemen drove away the taxi arrived and was willing to take me to the beach, tour around and back for 4000 peso (approx 8-9 US$)...my first reaction was that it´s quite a high price and then the lady looks at me and says, no it´s quite good...and then it hit me...MAN, THEY ORDERED ESPECIALLY FOR U A TAXI AND U R ARGUING?! ARE U OUTA YOUR FUCKN ISRAELI MIND?!?! so i grabbed this offer with both hands and after 15 min we came to an isolated, rocky and amazing beach with condors, cormorans and sea gulls flying all around with several caves and holes in the rock...a mountain ridge was landing right into the sea and it was amazing...! the driver came with me and we manage to talk with my two-way english espanol dictionary...it seems it was a nice place for alot of chilean suiciders and quite alot of crosses were posted all along the nice path...really sad, actually...Sea lions, however, was hard to view as their Island was something like 500 m from the place we were standing...after 30-40 min of hiking we got back to the cab...man, i would have stayed there for a day...at the least!! it is so virgin, so clean and isolated from the tourists humming beaches...next time (if there will be a next in northern chile) i would go for the bike thing...so we came back the nice kiosk and i invited the cab driver (which his name is Vladimir, believe it or not!) and had a talk with an american fela who was couple of days in Arica...he was on his way home, having the last days in Arica...early this morning i was awake at 5 am so i can take a cab to the station for Putre that leaves at 6:30..and who i meet coming up the street? Yep, Olle Steffen coming with it´s Muchilla all grinning...sure thing, we both hoped on the taxi and headed for the station. The way to Putre was marvallous passing the desert mountain range with green valleys and khaki colored mountains all sorrounded with clouds...it was amazing and exciting, as Berry Sakharof was doing it´s live performance in my CD....very emotional...Putre (3600 m) is so quiet and peacefull im thinking about staying here a couple of days...my plan with Steffen is to do 2mmorow a tour into the Lauca national park and the day after, climb the Tota Camario, a 4000 m mountain rising south of the village with the cruss de mayo at it´s peak and a blazing Chilean flag...hope we gonna make it to the peak...

Chen