Huayna Potosi o no Huayna Potosi??

Believe it or not, thats me up there, trying to catch my breat at 4900 meters...

LOCATION: BOLIVIA

As part of this trip aims is to challenge my self, conquering a mountain is an obvious attraction on the "to-do" list. The 6,088 m high Huayna Potosi mountain is indeed a formidable photogenic peak located only 24 km north of La paz. Taking a 3-day tour with a tour agency, I have tried to reach the summit but had to retreat very frustrated back to La paz after only one day due to a health problem…

The first time I have heard about Huayna Potosi mountain was one night in the hostel, when one New-Zealand girl talked about the climbing experience. Then, after a week an a half, an Australian guy name Roman looked for partners for this climbing, and I decided it might be nice to try to reach the peak. The fact that the price was also low encouraged me even more to try to climb this peak (approx 25-30 USD per day), as most excursions to this mountain and others are quite expensive, averaging on 50 USD per day. Checking the agency, I found a little shop hidden inside a passage, with used mountaineering equipment strewn on shelves and pictures of smiling climbers on top several Bolivian mountains. Using my English-spanish, I have realized that it is recommended to take a 3-day tour, as this mountain is all year around snowy, which means mountaineering experience is required and even recommended. The tour plan was to reach a hat that served as a refugee located at 4,800 m and hike to a proximate glacier which served as a training ground for climbing techniques. The next morning, we were to hike with all the necessary equipment to the base camp, situated at 5,200 m right under the snow line. After having lunch, the plan was to wake up at 1 am and hike-climb to the peak.
After doing quick bargaining, I´ve managed to lower the cost from 100 USD to 85 for these three days, all included. As Roman planned to do only 2 day excursion, I have decided to leave on Saturday morning, so Roman would join me at the base camp on Sunday. Nice plan, but different reality.
At 8 am I went up Sagarnaga street to the agency, to meet my guide for this tour, Mario, and another Israeli, Avi. Avi was also planning on doing the 2 day excursion, but he decided to start on Saturday. Not long after I came to the agency, we both were checking the different equipment, which was in medium to poor shape. Plastic Booths, Crampons, Ice axe, water proof pants, down jacket, water proof gloves..the works! We were equipped almost as we were going to the south pole!
Shoving all this equipment into our backpacks, we climbed into the car and went away toward the northern part of the city. After one hour we stopped for food supply at a nice viewing point over the city, and mistakenly thought that one of the far peaks was our aim…we were astonished to realize, that a nasty looking spiked peak was our destination…
One hour of dirt road driving and we were at the reserve gate. Mario commented that 2 Israelis (or Jewish?) tried to climb this mountain back at 1942 (!!) and were now buried in a near local cemetery…It was quite hard for me and Avi to believe that even back then, Israeli's were that adventurous!
We had a short breakfast/lunch near the refugee and Avi and his guide hauled their backpacks on their backs and started hiking toward the base camp. Me and Mario, on the other hand, wore our mountaineering equipment for the training cession. However, then I had a surprise. It seems that the boots were too weary and we could not attach the crampons to the boots.. Luckily, Mario had a spare and broken crampons, so for one full hour he was searching the refugee grounds for steel fibers so he could fix the crampons. This didn´t gave me a safe feeling and I was quite pist off…Finally, we took the equipment and hiked 30 min to the site of the training. The walking wasn´t easy and I was breathing hard, even though I didn´t carry anything but the crampons and a climbing belt.
A side remark: when going on high altitude, two independent issues have tremendous affect on the physical functionality of the climber: Acclimatization and physical fitness. Proper acclimatization is important due to the low levels of oxygen in the air, and usually one week in La paz is sufficient to acclimatize to such extreme heights. The other issue of high altitude climbing is physical fitness. As less oxygen is available, climbers which are physically fit can manage to climb easily even in such oxygen conditions in comparison to those who are not physically fit. While altitude sickness can be dealt with proper acclimatization, trouble breathing is a problem which can not be dealt with…
Mario demonstrated for me how to climb up and down glaciers, with and without the ice axe and also climbing 90 degree straight glacier…it was very interesting but also very hard, for my feet had there own life and were indifferent to my orders. In addition to the feet and arms techniques, it was hard also to breath and every couple of steps I had to stop breathing, especially when I exercised the 6 m straight wall climbing. It was damn hard, as you had to use both feet and arms to haul your self up the ice cliff. After 2 and half hours of training, we went back to the refugee for supper and sleep. At this stage, I was very exhausted, and walked very slowly more out of self inertia than out of self control..I could see that Mario was worried and kept asking if I have headaches or stomach aches, which I didn´t had…Even so, I thought whether I was fit this kind climbing as this was only 4,800 m´ and the starting point will be no less than 5,200 meters! But then, another some unconscious thing was hassling me. Well, it seems that I have developed in the night before THOR…Only when I got into the refugee and trying to sit down, did I realized that breathing hard was the least of my problems at that time…Going to the bathroom (which served also as a shower and a sink..), I performed self examination (not a doctor but still) and realized I had a THOR at an approximate size of a moxipane pill (!)…real huge and really-really painful! Both Mario and the house lady (both over fifty years old, BTW) have enquired for my problems, and finally, I spilled out that I have ass aches…at first they thought it was a surface blow and only after I demonstrated with my hands what was on the daily agenda, then they started out laughing…I have joined them promptly, as this was a bizarre event, explaining these two seasoned people that I have ass problems…I guess that I´ll be remembered for quite a long time, as the Israeli that in contrast to most of climbers, had ass problems and not altitude sickness.. After having supper we all went to sleep, hoping I will feel better (and only me gripped that this try is finished..).
That night was one of my worse in my life, as for not only I suffered massive pains whatever position I took, but also sleeping was a mission, as breathing was difficult and waking breathless was an every five minute event…11 hours of total darkness passed very, very slowly and I was longing for the morning light. Needless to say that it was very cold, although I was in the shelter. Outside the temperature dropped under –7 degrees…
Morning came and with it the full comprehension this excursions had come to an end, even before hiking to the base camp. It was not even a smart move – it was a must move! I couldn't walk, lay down or stand. I knew I need to see a doctor ASAP. Around 10 am we saw two figures going down the dirt path, and realized it was Avi. He was totally exhausted, after a night of climbing in freezing and breathless conditions. He walked so slowly that they had to stop at 5,700 meter and return back for the sun was already shining and there was a good chance of ice shafts formation, which are quite deadly. Even though, he was happy doing "the hardest thing I have ever done…". After half an hour our transport arrived and we were heading back to La paz.
Once in La paz, my first concern was to check in back into the hostel and then to look for a doctor.. My insurance covered an assistance of a local, Jewish doctor and I called him. He was nice and ask me to call him later on to fix a time and place for the examination. I was already suffering from massive pain and It was hard to even walk couple of meters.. Before I called him again, another Israeli told me he is suffering from the same things and together we met with this doctor, Dr. Mauricio… Apart from being funny, he was quick and efficient and written for us both the same prescription. You can imagine that it was quite hilarious that both of us came with the same "ass problems" and it was even more hilarious when we got to a pharmacy to buy this stuff (cream and anti-inflammatory pills). It was really funny, and we both had some laughs…
That´s it for now…Im planning to go to Sorata in the next few days and hopefully, to feel much better…The Huayna Potosi climb will have to wait till I feel better again, and also acclimatize a bit…
Chao for now,
Chen